Between Zandvoort and Overveen, a cobbled path winds through the dunes. Dune slopes on either side, the occasional train rushing by, then suddenly, after a few bends, a short climb you’ll feel in your legs. This is the Visscherspad. Anyone cycling here today is following the route that women and men walked for centuries, carrying a basket of fish on their backs.
Find out where the path starts and ends, what the ride is like, what you’ll see along the way, and why it has its name. Plus, how to turn it into a lovely loop from Zandvoort.
Contents:
- What is the Visscherspad?
- The fish carriers: a basket of fish on the way to Haarlem
- The route
- What the ride is like: cobbles, bends and De Blinkert
- The viewpoint and the wisents of the Kraansvlak
- Kraantje Lek: A Rest Stop for the Fish Carriers
- Beyond Kraantje Lek: Elswout, Duinlust and the Brouwerskolk
- Make a loop of it
- Which bike is right for the Visscherspad?
- Tips for the ride
- Frequently asked questions
What is the Visscherspad?
The Visscherspad is a cycle and walking path through Zuid-Kennemerland National Park. It connects Zandvoort with Kraantje Lek, the old restaurant at the foot of the De Blinkert dune in Overveen. The path runs mostly alongside the railway between Zandvoort and Haarlem and is paved with cobblestones. You may also see the name spelled Visserspad. Climbfinder and Komoot use the older spelling with sch.
According to Haarlem105, Zandvoort was once a remote fishing village accessible only by two paths through the dunes. One of them led to Haarlem. Long before the railway, this was the route Zandvoort used to bring its fish to the city. So cycling the path takes you through a slice of local history. The scenery is worth the ride too: open dunes, scrubland, a viewpoint, and, at the end, a grand historic inn.
For cyclists, the Visscherspad is part of the cycling junction network. On the cycling route through the Kennemerduinen described by ANWB, you reach the Visscherspad at junction 37.
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The fish carriers: a basket of fish on the way to Haarlem
For centuries, Zandvoort was a small fishing village. Fishermen sailed their flat-bottomed bomschuiten out from the beach and brought their catch ashore again at high tide. The fish was sold on the beach to fish carriers—women and men who took it into town to sell.
The fish carriers carried their goods in a tall basket on their backs. The basket was called a kriel. According to Haarlem105, they took off their shoes or clogs at the start of the path, by a post known as the “stocking post”. Barefoot, they walked through the loose dune sand towards Haarlem. They rested at Kraantje Lek. The paved road began there, and they could put their shoes back on.
Most of the fish was sold at the fish market by the Grote Markt in Haarlem. Anyone who arrived before ten in the morning had the fish inspected first. Sales could then begin. According to Haarlem105, the women from Zandvoort far outnumbered the other sellers at the market.
On the way back, they celebrated their earnings. They did so at an inn on the edge of Haarlem, now called Het Wapen van Kennemerland. Meanwhile, their equipment stood outside the door: buckets and baskets that smelled strongly after a day full of fish. That’s how the inn got a nickname that’s still well known today: the Stinkende Emmer.
The trade came to an end when large steam trawlers started fishing from the port of IJmuiden. There was less and less fish left for the people of Zandvoort, and fish from IJmuiden was sent by rail to Haarlem. The bomschuiten disappeared from Zandvoort beach, and so did the fish carriers. The path remained.
The route
The Visscherspad runs west to east, from Zandvoort to Overveen. According to Oneindig Noord-Holland, the fish carriers’ path crossed the old main road along the inner edge of the dunes at a right angle. Today’s walking and cycling path runs roughly where the old path once did.
In Zandvoort, start on the eastern edge of town, by the railway. From Zandvoort aan Zee station, ride alongside the railway to Sophiaweg, where the path enters the dunes. Then follow the cobblestone path. Along the way, you’ll pass a junction with the road to Bentveld. There’s a viewpoint halfway along. At the end, you’ll reach the Kraantje Lek car park on Duinlustweg.
If you’d rather follow a cycling junction route, junction 37 will point you in the right direction. The entire route lies within Zuid-Kennemerland National Park. Find more tips in our guide to cycling through Zuid-Kennemerland National Park from Zandvoort.
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What the ride is like: cobbles, bends and De Blinkert
The Visscherspad isn’t a straight, flat cycle path. It follows the contours of the dunes, with bends, short descents and small bumps. Cyclists on Climbfinder describe it as a rolling path that feels like a roller coaster when you ride it at speed. They say the cobblestones are in good, even condition.
The toughest stretch comes at the end, towards Kraantje Lek. That’s where you’ll find De Blinkert, one of the area’s best-known dunes. Climbfinder measured the climb via the Visscherspad: 1.8 kilometres long, with 26 metres of elevation gain and an average gradient of 1.4%. The steepest 100-metre section reaches 5.7%. The summit is 25 metres above sea level.
That sounds modest, and it is. According to Climbfinder, the climb isn’t steep enough to qualify for a mountain category, and even untrained cyclists can reach the top without difficulty. Still, Climbfinder calls it the longest climb in North Holland. You’ll feel it on a regular bike, especially with a headwind.
Keep in mind that you share the path with walkers. It can get busy on a sunny Sunday, so slow down on the bends and ring your bell when you overtake someone.
The viewpoint and the wisents of the Kraansvlak
There’s a viewpoint about halfway along the path. Leave your bike to the side and walk a little way uphill. At the top, you can look out over the dunes, with Zandvoort in the distance. On the other side of the railway, you can see the Kraansvlak, according to ANWB.
Kraansvlak is a restricted dune area within the national park. A herd of European bison, known as wisents, lives there; the species was nearly extinct in the wild. With a little luck, you’ll see them grazing from the viewpoint. There’s no guarantee, though, as the animals roam freely across a large area. You can use the tracker at wisenten.nl to see roughly where the herd is.
Want to get closer? The Wisentenpad is open from 1 September to 1 March. It’s a three-kilometre walking route right through the wisents’ habitat. Visit Zandvoort warns visitors to keep their distance at all times, that dogs aren’t allowed and that the path isn’t suitable for pushchairs. Leave your bike behind.
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Kraantje Lek: A Rest Stop for the Fish Carriers
Kraantje Lek lies at the eastern end of the path. The fish carriers stopped here for a break, and it’s also a natural place for today’s cyclists to get off their bikes. The white house with red and green shutters is a national heritage site. According to Wikipedia, an inn called Rockaers was already built here in 1542. No one knows for sure where the name Kraantje Lek comes from.
For generations of children from Haarlem, Amsterdam and the surrounding area, Kraantje Lek was the destination for school trips. There’s a playground beside the restaurant, and behind the house rises De Blinkert, the steep dune where children ran up and down for hours.
The Hollow Tree is also well known. It was an ancient elm with such a large hollow that, according to Oneindig Noord-Holland, as many as six children could crawl inside at once. Children in Haarlem used to be told that babies came from that tree. The tree died in the 1970s. According to ANWB, it was struck by a storm and lightning. In 2007, Haarlem sculptor Kees Verkade made a life-size bronze cast. The sculpture now stands beside the restaurant.
If you’d like to read more about the history of this place, you’ll find a lovely story at Oneindig Noord-Holland.
Beyond Kraantje Lek: Elswout, Duinlust and the Brouwerskolk
The Visscherspad ends at Kraantje Lek, but there are plenty of stories in the surrounding area. Opposite the restaurant is Elswout estate, a country estate dating back to 1634. According to the ANWB, Elswout is free to visit, but getting to the entrance involves a substantial detour by bike. A little further on, you’ll see Duinlust to the left of the cycle path, a country house built in 1881 with turrets and stepped gables.
Just past Duinlust, you cross the Zanderijvaart canal. From 1850 to 1948, barges loaded with dune sand travelled here to Haarlem and Amsterdam. The sand was used to build new residential neighbourhoods. The name Brouwerskolk also hints at its history. In the seventeenth century, Haarlem’s brewers came here for clean water. The water in the city’s canals wasn’t suitable.
On one short ride, you can see how the dunes have been used for centuries: as a route for the fish trade, a sand quarry for the city and a water source for the brewers.
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Make a loop of it
The Visscherspad is a point-to-point route. If you don’t want to retrace your steps, make it a loop.
- Return along the coast. From Kraantje Lek, cycle via Overveen to the Zeeweg, then through the dunes to Bloemendaal aan Zee. Follow the coast back to Zandvoort. On the way, you’ll pass the Koevlak entrance, where the national park visitor centre is located.
- Add a climb. If you’re feeling fit, ride on from Kraantje Lek through Bloemendaal and climb to the Kopje van Bloemendaal, the area’s best-known viewpoint.
- On to Haarlem. From Kraantje Lek, Haarlem is just a short ride away. Like the fish carriers of old, head on to the Grote Markt and enjoy a coffee on a terrace.
Which bike is right for the Visscherspad?
The Visscherspad is paved, so you can ride it on any bike. Still, your choice of bike will shape the experience.
- City bike. Ideal if you’re taking it easy and don’t mind pedalling a little harder up De Blinkert.
- Electric bike. An e-bike makes the bumps and headwinds easy to handle. Handy if you’re planning a longer loop or don’t cycle often.
- Fat bike. A fun choice if you want to take a sandy path or ride on the beach along the way. It feels solid and stable on the cobblestones.
- Children’s bike or child seat. Children who can already ride well on their own can manage the path. Take care on the bends and when it’s busy.
Don’t have your own bike with you? Hire one at Behind the Beach in Zandvoort, on Haltestraat, a few minutes’ ride from the start of the path.
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Tips for the ride
- Go early on a sunny day. The path is quietest in the morning. It gets busy with cyclists around midday and at weekends.
- Bring something to drink. There are no shops along the way, but you can get something to eat and drink at Kraantje Lek.
- Stop at the viewpoint. Many people cycle right past it. That’s a shame, because it’s the perfect spot to see how the dune landscape fits together.
- Bring binoculars. You’ll have a better chance of spotting the wisents in the Kraansvlak.
- Stay on the path. The national park is a protected nature reserve. Cycling off the paths is not allowed.
- Take the train. Zandvoort aan Zee station is close to the start of the path, so you won’t have to look for parking.
Frequently asked questions
Why is it called the Visscherspad?
The path is named after the fish carriers from Zandvoort. For centuries, they walked this route through the dunes to sell fish at the market in Haarlem. Today’s cycle path runs roughly where their old route did.
Where does the Visscherspad start and end?
The path starts on the eastern edge of Zandvoort, on Sophiaweg near the railway. It ends at the Kraantje Lek car park on Duinlustweg in Overveen.
Can you cycle on the Visscherspad?
Yes. The Visscherspad is a paved cycle path with cobblestones and is part of the cycling junction network. You share the path with walkers, though, so adjust your speed.
Is the Visscherspad a difficult ride?
No. The path undulates with the dunes. At the end, there’s the climb to De Blinkert: 1.8 kilometres with an average gradient of 1.4%. You can ride up on any regular bike. On an e-bike, you’ll barely notice the hills or the wind.
Can you see wisents from the Visscherspad?
Sometimes. From the viewpoint halfway along the path, you can look out over the Kraansvlak, home to a herd of wisents. Whether you can see them depends on where the herd is grazing that day. From 1 September to 1 March, you can also walk the Wisentenpad.
What is the Stinkende Emmer?
That was the name given to the inn where the fish carriers stopped for a drink on their way back from Haarlem. The fish buckets and baskets they left outside smelled so strongly that the nickname stuck. Today, the restaurant is called Het Wapen van Kennemerland.